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Tash-Hauli: The Palace Built as a Labyrinth So No One Could Reach the Khan

The Khiva khans had two palaces. Kunya-Ark — the old fortress-residence by the western gate. And Tash-Hauli — the new, ceremonial one by the eastern gate, built deliberately tangled: a stranger could never find his way to the ruler.

A Kvazar guide · Updated 2026 · ~8 min read

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In the eastern part of Itchan Kala, by the Palvan-Darvaza gate, stands Tash-Hauli — the "stone courtyard," the main palace of the 19th-century Khiva khans. If Kunya-Ark was the old fortress-residence, Tash-Hauli was built as a new ceremonial palace: with a harem, a throne court and reception yards for guests and for justice. Its hallmark is a deliberately tangled layout — the palace is built almost like a maze. This guide covers what's inside and why it's worth seeing.

In short: Tash-Hauli ("stone courtyard") is the main palace of the Khiva khans, built in the first half of the 19th century in the eastern part of Itchan Kala. Inside are three main parts: a harem with richly decorated iwans, a throne (ceremonial) court for receptions, and a yard for justice and meetings. The palace is renowned for its dense majolica, carving and carved wooden columns. The layout is deliberately complex, like a labyrinth. Allow 30–45 minutes.
In this guide What Tash-Hauli is Why a labyrinth palace The harem and iwans The throne court How it differs from Kunya-Ark FAQ

What is Tash-Hauli?

It's the ceremonial palace of the 19th-century Khiva khans, its name translating as "stone courtyard." It consists of several courtyards with different functions: a residential harem, a ceremonial section with a throne place, and a zone for receptions and justice. The palace is richly decorated with blue and turquoise majolica, carved ganch (alabaster) and carved wooden columns — the peak of Khivan decorative art.

Tash-Hauli was built by order of the Khiva khan as a new, more luxurious residence to replace the cramped old Kunya-Ark. By tradition, the khan demanded the palace be raised in a very short time, which brought misfortune on the builders.

Today it's a museum site within Itchan Kala, and it's here that the daily life and luxury of the Khiva court can best be seen, on the eve of the khanate's end.

Why was the palace built tangled, like a labyrinth?

Tash-Hauli's complex, tangled layout is not accidental but defensive: a multitude of courtyards, passages and turns are arranged so that an outsider couldn't easily reach the khan's chambers. It's a combination of palace and fortress from within: the beauty of the facades sits alongside a deliberate system of access control. At the same time, the maze separated public, judicial and private (harem) life.

For the visitor this means the palace is interesting precisely to wander through: the space can't be read at a glance — it reveals itself courtyard by courtyard. Better to go slowly and not try to form a map in your head at once.

That same tangledness explains why Tash-Hauli seems larger than it is: you're always turning and losing your bearings.

What is there to see in the harem?

The harem is the most ornate part of Tash-Hauli. It's a courtyard with a row of tall iwans (open vaulted verandas), behind which lay the chambers of the khan and his wives. The walls are covered in blue-and-white majolica with vegetal and geometric pattern, the ceilings with carving and painting, the iwan columns with fine woodwork. It's the best example in Khiva of residential khan-court decoration.

The iwans opened onto the courtyard so as to catch shade and cool air — a design thought through for the hot Khorezm climate. Each had its own purpose and its own "mistress" among the harem's residents.

This is the place to linger longest: the tiles of the Tash-Hauli harem are among the most photographed and, at the same time, genuinely exquisite decoration in Khiva.

What happened in the throne court?

In the ceremonial court of Tash-Hauli the khan received guests and ambassadors and conducted affairs of state. Here stood the place for the throne (by accounts, a portable yurt-tent in the courtyard, a nod to nomadic roots), with reception rooms around it. A separate zone served for justice and for meetings with subjects. This was the palace's public "face," as against the private harem.

The combination of a permanent palace and a yurt set up in the courtyard for the throne is a telling detail: the settled khan's power of Khiva remembered its steppe origins and underlined them in its ceremonial.

How does Tash-Hauli differ from Kunya-Ark?

Kunya-Ark ("old fortress") is the ancient fortified residence of the khans by the western gate of Itchan Kala, harsher and more defensive. Tash-Hauli is the new, ceremonial and luxurious palace by the eastern gate, built later. Kunya-Ark is about power and defense; Tash-Hauli is about luxury and court life. Ideally, see both: they complement each other.

Both palaces stand at the ends of Itchan Kala's main axis, and to walk from one to the other is to cross the whole old city, past the Juma Mosque. It's a convenient way to build a route through Khiva.

Frequently asked questions

What is the Tash-Hauli palace?

The ceremonial palace of the 19th-century Khiva khans in the eastern part of Itchan Kala; the name translates as "stone courtyard." It includes a harem, a throne court and a zone for receptions and justice, richly decorated with majolica and carving.

Why is Tash-Hauli built like a labyrinth?

The tangled layout with its many courtyards and passages served as defense: an outsider couldn't easily reach the khan's chambers. It also separated the public, judicial and private (harem) parts of the palace.

What is the most beautiful thing in Tash-Hauli?

The harem: a courtyard with tall iwans, walls in blue-and-white majolica, carved wooden columns and painted ceilings. It's one of the most exquisite interiors in Khiva.

How does Tash-Hauli differ from Kunya-Ark?

Kunya-Ark is the old fortified residence by the western gate, harsh and defensive. Tash-Hauli is the new ceremonial palace by the eastern gate, luxurious and courtly. Both are worth seeing.

How long do you need for Tash-Hauli?

About 30–45 minutes for an unhurried visit. Because of the labyrinthine layout it's best to go slowly and simply wander the courtyards. Entry is usually on the single Itchan Kala ticket.

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