The Ferghana Valley is the most fertile and densely populated part of Uzbekistan, hemmed in by mountains in the east of the country. Tourists reach it less often than Samarkand and Bukhara, and quite wrongly: for understanding Uzbek cuisine, Ferghana is the key place. It's from here that the "right" rice and the school of plov the whole country considers classic come. Here's what's worth trying in the valley.
What is Ferghana plov famous for?
By contrast with the light Samarkand and sweet Bukhara versions, Ferghana plov is the "classic of classics": it's the one most often cooked in Uzbek homes. If you want to taste the difference between the regional versions, it makes sense to start here. A full breakdown is in the piece on plov.
Samarkand cooks plov light, Bukhara sweet, and Ferghana cooks the plov the whole country considers real.
Why is devzira rice from Ferghana?
Devzira is prized so highly that it's carried for plov across the whole country and beyond. At the valley's bazaars, rice of various kinds is a category of goods all its own, and the locals know it as well as winemakers know grape varieties. On the role of devzira and the zirvak, see the piece on plov.
What is Andijan plov?
It's precisely in Ferghana that it becomes especially clear that plov is not one recipe but a living tradition with dozens of local schools, where the count is no longer of regions but of individual cities. It's that very "map of the country through plov" we write about in the main piece.
What to eat with plov and for dessert?
Achik-chuchuk is the case where the simplest three-ingredient salad becomes part of a gastronomic ritual: without it, plov in the valley is hardly eaten. And Kokand, with its confectionery traditions, is a good point for a "sweet" route; we cover the kinds of Uzbek sweets separately.
Frequently asked questions about food in the Ferghana Valley
What should you definitely try in the Ferghana Valley?
Ferghana (chaikhana) plov made with the local devzira rice; Andijan plov; the achik-chuchuk salad as a companion to plov; and the valley's sweets, especially Kokand halva.
Why is Ferghana plov considered the "benchmark"?
It's the most widespread school of plov — the dark, fatty chaikhana plov cooked in most Uzbek homes and taken as the classic. Besides, it's in Ferghana that devzira grows — the "right" rice for plov.
What is achik-chuchuk?
Achik-chuchuk is a simple Uzbek salad of tomatoes, onion and hot pepper, served with plov. It refreshes and balances the fatty rice dish. The best tomatoes for it are the local juicy varieties.
How does Ferghana's cuisine differ from Samarkand's and Bukhara's?
Ferghana is the home of the dark, fatty chaikhana plov and of devzira rice, considered the benchmark. Samarkand is known for light layered plov on linseed oil, Bukhara for sweet plov with dried fruit. Three regions — three different tastes.
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