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Uzbek Carpets: Julkhirs, Gilam and a Lost Secret

The Spanish king's ambassador at the court of Tamerlane admired the bright red carpets of the Samarkand palaces. Centuries later the technology of the precious silk carpets was lost — but the art of carpet weaving survived. Today Uzbekistan weaves long-pile julkhirs and red-brown Bukhara gilam.

A Kvazar guide · Updated 2026 · ~7 min read

Home ? Stories ? Culture ? Uzbek Carpets: Julkhirs, Gilam and a Lost Secret

A carpet in Central Asia is not just a decoration for the floor. It's the insulation of a home, a sign of prosperity, a dowry and a whole language of ornament passed down through generations. Carpet weaving here is an ancient craft: stone spindle-whorls have been found in dwellings as far back as the Eneolithic era. Over the millennia, different types of carpet and local schools formed in Uzbekistan, and their history includes both the rise of palace silk carpet-making and the dramatic loss of its secrets.

In short: Uzbek carpets are traditionally divided into three main types by pile length: "julkhirs" (long-pile), "gilam" (short-pile) and "palas" (pile-less). Julkhirs best preserved the traditions of ancient weaving and are most often found around Samarkand; gilam are usually red-brown, with geometric ornament, widespread in Bukhara; palas are woven from cotton, wool and kenaf. A separate ancient type is the koshma (the felt carpet of the nomads). The materials are wool, cotton and, less often, silk. In the past, the palace workshops of Bukhara, Samarkand and Khiva created precious silk and gold-woven carpets, but by the early 19th century the technology of making them was lost. Today carpet weaving lives on both in factories and in handcraft workshops.
In this guide The three types of carpet Julkhirs Gilam The koshma felt carpet The lost silk carpets Where they're woven today FAQ

What kinds of Uzbek carpet are there?

Classically, Uzbek carpets are divided into three types by pile length. Julkhirs is a long-pile carpet that preserved the traditions of ancient monumental weaving. Gilam is a short-pile carpet, most often red-brown, with a geometric pattern. Palas is a pile-less woven carpet of cotton, wool and kenaf. Besides these there's the koshma — a felt carpet, one of the most ancient types.

The main materials are sheep's wool and cotton, less often silk. The pile-less carpets have their own subtypes with their own names: kokhma, terme, gajari, sumakh and others. In different regions — Bukhara, Samarkand, Khiva, the Ferghana Valley — their own traditions formed, and in the centers of carpet weaving the sketches of old national designs, carrying Central Asian symbolism, are carefully preserved.

What is julkhirs?

Julkhirs is a long-pile carpet whose name can be translated as "bear's skin": its thick, high pile really does resemble fur. This type preserved the traditions of ancient monumental weaving more than the others; it's often woven with the help of stone and wooden spindles, as in the old days. Julkhirs are most often found around Samarkand and in the countryside.

For a long time julkhirs was widespread above all in villages and rural areas, and in recent years designers have turned their attention to it — for its expressive texture and decorativeness. Its long pile and large, expressive design make such a carpet a striking accent in an interior. It's an example of how an old rural craft finds new life in modern design.

What is the Bukhara gilam known for?

Gilam is a short-pile carpet, and it's the one that many associate with the "Oriental carpet." Its distinguishing features are a red-brown color palette and a geometric ornament, often with regularly shaped medallions set off by light details. Gilam are especially widespread in Bukhara, which was historically one of the main centers of carpet weaving.

The characteristic deep red color and the strict geometric patterns made Bukhara carpets recognizable all over the world — so much so that "Bukhara" became almost a generic name for a whole style of Oriental carpet. Behind the geometry of the ornament lies ancient symbolism, and the harmony of the red ground and the light medallions is the result of a sense of composition honed over centuries.

A carpet older than cities. Carpet weaving in these parts goes back to deep antiquity: archaeologists have found stone spindle-whorls in the dwellings of semi-nomadic tribes as far back as the Eneolithic era. Even then, thread was spun from sheep's wool on stone and wooden spindles — the same methods still used in rural areas today.

What is the koshma felt carpet?

Koshma is a felt carpet, one of the most ancient types of carpet pieces, connected with nomadic life. Felt is not woven but matted from wool, and with such carpets the nomads insulated their yurts — portable frame dwellings. Traditionally the felt was dyed in restrained tones: white, gray, dark brown.

The koshma is a reminder that the culture of the region grew, among other things, out of the nomadic world of herders, for whom a carpet was a vital thing — warm, durable and portable. The simple, laconic patterns of felt carpets are the most ancient layer of the carpet tradition, preceding the lavish palace pieces of the settled cities.

Is it true the secret of the silk carpets is lost?

Yes, and it's one of the most dramatic pages in the history of the craft. In the past, the palace workshops of Bukhara, Samarkand and Khiva created precious silk and gold-woven pile carpets. They decorated the palaces of rulers and the nobility, were given to foreign sovereigns as treasures, and cost extremely dear. But with the decline of feudal power this labor-intensive production fell into decay, and by the early 19th century the technology of making such carpets was lost.

The former splendor is recalled by the testimonies of contemporaries: as early as the start of the 15th century the Spanish king's ambassador Ruy González de Clavijo, who visited the court of Amir Timur, admired the bright red carpets in the Samarkand palaces, gardens and tents. The loss of the secret of the palace silk carpets is an example of how fragile even the highest mastery is when it depends on a narrow circle of masters and the patronage of power.

Silk carpets were given to kings as jewels. And then their secret vanished along with the era that bore them.

Where are carpets woven today?

Carpet weaving in Uzbekistan remains a living craft at various levels: large carpet factories operate (in Khiva, Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, the Ferghana Valley), small workshops where carpets are woven by hand, and home carpet-making survives. In the workshops, old national designs with traditional symbolism are carefully reproduced.

For a traveler, a handmade carpet is one of the most valuable, though not the easiest to transport, souvenirs. In the workshops you can see the whole process — from spinning the wool to tying the knots — and understand why a good carpet costs a lot: behind it stand months of labor. A handmade Uzbek carpet carries within it both an ancient tradition and the labor of a specific master.

Frequently asked questions about Uzbek carpets

What are the main types of Uzbek carpet?

Three by pile length: julkhirs (long-pile), gilam (short-pile) and palas (pile-less). The felt carpet koshma stands separately.

What is julkhirs?

A long-pile carpet with thick, high pile that preserved the traditions of ancient weaving. More often found around Samarkand.

What is the Bukhara gilam known for?

Its red-brown palette and geometric ornament with medallions. Bukhara is historically one of the main centers of carpet weaving.

What is koshma?

The felt carpet of the nomads, used to insulate yurts. One of the most ancient types, usually in white, gray and dark-brown tones.

Why are the silk carpets lost?

Precious palace silk and gold-woven carpets were made at the courts of rulers, but with the decline of feudal power the production faded, and by the early 19th century the technology was lost.

Where can you buy a carpet?

At factories and handcraft workshops in Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand, Tashkent and the Ferghana Valley, where you can also see the weaving process itself.

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