Ulugh Beg & Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasas, Bukhara: Two Eras Face to Face

In the center of old Bukhara, beside the Zargaron trading dome, two madrasas stand opposite each other: the 15th-century Ulugh Beg Madrasa and the 17th-century Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasa. Setting two buildings "face to face" like this is called kosh, a deliberate device of Bukhara town-planning. But the most interesting thing here isn't the symmetry — it's the contrast: two hundred years separate the buildings, and they show vividly how taste and era changed. This guide covers what a kosh madrasa is and where the difference between the two lies.

In short: the kosh madrasas of Ulugh Beg and Abdulaziz-Khan are two colleges in the center of Bukhara, standing opposite one another ("kosh" is the paired placement of buildings facade to facade). The Ulugh Beg Madrasa was built in the 15th century under the Timurids by Tamerlane's grandson, the scholar-astronomer Ulugh Beg — restrained and austere. The Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasa was raised in the 17th century and astonishes with the richness and excess of its decoration. Together they show the difference between two eras. They're easily seen in one go — they're across the lane from each other.

In this guide What "kosh madrasa" means The Ulugh Beg Madrasa The Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasa What the contrast shows How to see them FAQ

What does "kosh madrasa" mean?

"Kosh," in Bukhara town-planning, is the device of placing two buildings facade to facade, on a single axis, forming one ensemble with a street-square between them. The kosh madrasas of Ulugh Beg and Abdulaziz-Khan are the classic example: two madrasas facing each other portal to portal. They were built in different eras, though, so the ensemble didn't appear all at once — it took shape when the later building was deliberately set opposite the earlier one.

The kosh device created expressive "gateways" and ceremonial axes within the dense urban fabric. For the traveler it's convenient: the two monuments end up literally a few steps apart.

Here the kosh works especially powerfully precisely because of the gap in time: the later architects, setting their madrasa opposite the Timurid one, were in effect entering a dialogue across two centuries.

What makes the Ulugh Beg Madrasa interesting?

The Ulugh Beg Madrasa in Bukhara is one of the oldest in Central Asia, built in the 15th century under the Timurids at the will of Mirzo Ulugh Beg, Tamerlane's grandson, an outstanding ruler and scholar-astronomer. It stands out for its restraint and austerity: noble proportions, sparing but precise decoration. Ulugh Beg, famous for his observatory in Samarkand, prized knowledge, and his madrasa was above all a place of study.

Ulugh Beg built several madrasas in different cities (the best-known on the Registan in Samarkand), and the Bukhara one is from the same tradition: mathematically measured, without excess. By tradition, an inscription over the entrance of one of his madrasas declared that the pursuit of knowledge is the duty of every Muslim.

Against the later Bukhara splendor, this building reads as a statement about intellect and measure — a portrait of Ulugh Beg himself in architecture.

How does the Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasa differ?

The Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasa was built in the 17th century, two centuries after Ulugh Beg's, and is its complete opposite: the richest, most saturated decoration — tilework, painting, gilding, intricate patterns, even motifs of fantastical creatures. If the Ulugh Beg Madrasa is about restraint, the Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasa is about luxury and the display of its era's wealth.

It's believed that Abdulaziz-Khan's architects deliberately set out to outdo the Timurid madrasa opposite in the splendor of its finish. Especially ornate paintings and carving survive inside. This is the peak of decorative abundance in late-medieval Bukhara.

Curiously, by several accounts the madrasa was left not quite finished — yet even so it astonishes with the density of its pattern.

Ulugh Beg built to teach. Two hundred years later, the one across the way was built to dazzle. Both buildings still stand, and still argue.

What does the contrast of the two madrasas show?

Set side by side, the two madrasas show vividly the change of eras and tastes: from Timurid restraint and the cult of knowledge (15th century) to late-medieval splendor and demonstrative luxury (17th century). It's a rare chance to compare, in a single glance, two architectural languages separated by two centuries — an open-air art-history textbook.

That's exactly why these two buildings are worth seeing together and consciously comparing, rather than rushing past them separately. The contrast is the main "exhibit" of this place.

How do you see the kosh madrasas?

Both madrasas stand in the center of the old city, beside the Zargaron trading dome and not far from the Poi-Kalon ensemble — easy to fold into one walk through the center of Bukhara. Step into both courtyards and compare the decoration of the facades and interiors. Today the buildings often house craft workshops and souvenir shops.

Tip: stand in the middle of the lane between the two portals and look first at one madrasa, then the other — that's where the contrast of eras reads best. Allow 20–30 minutes for both.

Frequently asked questions

What is a kosh madrasa?

"Kosh" is a Bukhara town-planning device of placing two buildings facade to facade on a single axis. The kosh madrasas of Ulugh Beg and Abdulaziz-Khan are two madrasas facing each other portal to portal.

Who built the Ulugh Beg Madrasa in Bukhara?

Mirzo Ulugh Beg, Tamerlane's grandson, an outstanding ruler and scholar-astronomer, in the 15th century under the Timurids. It's one of the oldest madrasas in Central Asia, marked by restraint and austerity.

How does the Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasa differ from the Ulugh Beg one?

It was built two centuries later (17th century) and astonishes with the richest decoration — tilework, painting, gilding. If Ulugh Beg is about restraint, Abdulaziz-Khan is about luxury.

Why are the two madrasas so unalike?

About two hundred years separate them. They show the change of eras: from Timurid restraint and the cult of knowledge to late-medieval splendor. The later architects seem to have competed with the earlier building.

Where are these madrasas?

In the center of old Bukhara, beside the Zargaron trading dome and not far from Poi-Kalon. They stand opposite each other and are convenient to see in one go (20–30 minutes).

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